"Buried Siding" and Bad Trees: How to Triage Your Landscape Without Going Broke

The Scenario

A homeowner recently asked:

I have three trees causing issues, including one pushing a fence, but my siding is also showing water damage at the bottom. Should I remove the trees and dig out the gravel to expose the foundation?

The GardenOwl Diagnosis

The Assessment

You have just bought a house—or maybe you just started looking closely at the one you have owned for years—and the list of problems is growing. You have a tree fighting a fence, another one tripping you with surface roots, and a Walnut tree looming over the roof. Addressing critical issues like these is essential not just for safety, but also to avoid the High-Grade Infiltration Syndrome and other costly failures that hurt your property's curb appeal.

But the thing that actually caught your eye is the siding. It looks a bit chewed up at the bottom. You are wondering if you should blow the budget on removing every tree in sight, or if you need to start digging dirt.

The Trap: The "Buried House" Syndrome

I see this in about 40% of the homes I inspect. Over the years, previous owners add a layer of mulch, then another, then maybe some gravel. Slowly, the grade rises until the soil is resting against the wood siding or the stucco weep screed.

This is a disaster waiting to happen.

When soil or wet mulch touches your siding, it bridges the gap for termites and moisture. It rots the sheathing and, eventually, the sill plate (the wood framing that sits on your foundation). While you are staring up at the Walnut tree worrying about a branch falling, the dirt at your feet is quietly eating your house.

The Solution: Triage and Excavate

You cannot fix everything at once. You need a triage plan. Here is how I would attack this yard, prioritizing the "house killers" first.

1. Excavate the Perimeter (Immediate Priority)

Forget the trees for a second. That water damage on your siding is your Code Red.

• The 6-Inch Rule: Building code generally requires a minimum of 6 inches of clearance between the ground and your wood siding. You need to dig that dirt and gravel back.
• Create a Swale or Maintenance Strip: You don't necessarily need to regrade the entire yard. You can dig a trench (about 12-18 inches wide) along the foundation to expose the concrete.
• Material Choice: Do not put mulch back in that trench. Mulch holds water like a sponge. Fill that new gap with 3/4" clean crushed gravel or river rock. This allows water to drain down quickly without splashing mud back up onto your white siding.

For a deeper look at why "easy fixes" near foundations often fail, read about why you shouldn't brick over broken stairs.

2. The Tree Triage

Now, let's look at the trees. Homeowners often think "remove everything" is the safest bet, but mature trees add massive value to a property.

• The Fence Pusher: If a tree is physically destroying a structure (like your fence), it usually has to go, or the fence needs to move. A fence is cheaper to move than a mature tree is to replace.
• The Surface Roots: You mentioned roots growing above the grass. This happens when soil is compacted or heavy clay. Do not bury them. Piling dirt on top of roots suffocates them. Instead, convert that grassy area into a large mulch bed. It stops you from mowing over roots and keeps the tree healthy. We cover this concept in our guide on planting under large trees.
• The Walnut: If it's healthy, keep it. Black Walnuts produce juglone, which makes it hard to grow tomatoes or hydrangeas underneath, but they are majestic shade trees. Consult an ISA Certified Arborist to assess the risk to the roof.

3. The Contractor Safety Net

If you decide to remove the trees, do not hire the guy with a chainsaw and a pickup truck who knocked on your door.

Tree work is dangerous. If an uninsured worker drops a limb on your roof—or worse, hurts themselves—you are liable. In Washington (and most states), you need to verify their license and bond status. As I mentioned in the initial fix, checking the L&I website is non-negotiable. Don't risk your biggest asset to save $300.

Visualizing the Result

It is terrifying to start digging near your foundation if you don't know what the final result should look like. You might worry about creating a moat or a trip hazard.

This is where GardenDream helps. You can upload a photo of your side yard and digitally "excavate" the soil to see how a gravel maintenance strip would look against your siding. It acts as a blueprint so you can show a contractor exactly what you want: "See this image? I want the grade lowered to here, with rock, not mulch."

If you want to test this on your own yard, upload a photo and see what this design would look like in your space using our Exterior Design App.