4 min read
Retaining WallsErosion ControlClay SoilNative PlantsLandscape Design

Don't Let That Hill Fail: How to Stabilize a Steep Clay Slope Above a Retaining Wall

Before: A steep, bare red clay hill threatening a new wall. After: A lush, stabilized slope covered in low-growing juniper and erosion netting.

The Dilemma

A homeowner recently asked:

I just installed a retaining wall and French drain to fix serious yard drainage problems, but now I have a steep, bare clay hill above it that absolutely destroys my curb appeal. I need a low-maintenance, evergreen planting plan to stop the soil from washing away.

The GardenOwl Diagnosis

The Scenario

You have just invested a significant amount of money into a retaining wall and a French drain to solve a water problem. You are in Zone 7a (Western NC), dealing with heavy red clay, and you have a steep, naked slope towering over your new investment. Currently, it’s just bare dirt and a few pine sprouts.

The Trap

Most homeowners think the retaining wall is the finish line. It isn't. It's the starting line.

Right now, that bare clay bank is a loaded weapon pointed at your new drainage system. In Western North Carolina, red clay doesn't absorb water quickly; it gets slicker than grease. Without stabilization, the first heavy thunderstorm is going to wash silt and sediment right down the hill.

This sediment will bypass the gravel backfill and clog the fabric on your expensive French drain. Once that drain clogs, hydrostatic pressure builds up behind the wall, and that is how walls fail. You need to stop the soil from moving, and you need to do it yesterday.

The Solution (Deep Dive)

We need a two-layer approach: Mechanical stabilization (immediate) and Biological stabilization (long-term).

1. The Mechanical Fix: Jute Netting

Do not skip this step. If you just throw mulch on a slope this steep, it will end up on your patio next week.

You need to buy rolls of Jute Erosion Control Netting. This is a biodegradable mesh that looks like loose burlap.

  • Roll it out from the top of the hill down to the wall.
  • Overlap the edges by 6 inches.
  • Pin it down aggressively with 6-inch landscape staples (use more than you think you need).

This netting acts as a temporary root system while your plants get established. It holds the mulch in place and prevents the clay from washing out.

2. The Biological Fix: 'Blue Rug' Juniper

For the plants, forget about delicate flowers. You need a workhorse. In Zone 7a, on a West-facing slope with clay, nothing beats Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis 'Wiltonii' or 'Blue Rug').

  • Why it works: It is evergreen (looks good all year), drought-tolerant once established, and forms a dense mat that suppresses weeds. Most importantly, its root system is excellent at binding soil.
  • The Mix: To break up the monotony, interplant with Creeping Phlox for spring color. If the upper tree canopy casts shade on parts of the slope, use Christmas Ferns (Polystichum acrostichoides). They are native to your woods, evergreen, and tough as nails.

3. The Planting Technique (Crucial)

Here is where most people mess up on clay slopes:

  • The Cut: Use a box cutter to slice an 'X' in the jute netting where you want a plant.
  • The Dig: Dig your hole directly into the native clay.
  • The "Bathtub" Rule: Do NOT add potting soil, compost, or peat moss to the hole. If you dig a hole in clay and fill it with fluffy soil, you create a clay bowl that fills with water and drowns the plant (the "bathtub effect"). Backfill with the native clay you dug out. This forces the roots to push into the bank immediately for moisture, anchoring the slope faster.
  • Size: Buy small plants—plugs or 1-gallon pots. They are cheaper, easier to plant on a steep grade, and actually adapt to the harsh conditions faster than large, expensive nursery stock.

Visualizing the Result

It is hard to imagine a lush green hillside when you are staring at a pile of red mud. This is where planning saves you money. Using a tool like GardenDream allows you to map out exactly how many juniper plugs you need to get full coverage without over-buying. It acts as a safety net, letting you see the mature spread of the plants so you don't end up with a jungle—or a patchy mess—three years down the road.

If you want to spot hidden opportunities in your own yard, upload a photo to our Exterior Design App to get an instant diagnosis and visualize the transformation.

FAQs

1. Can I use plastic weed barrier instead of Jute?

Absolutely not. Plastic landscape fabric is the worst thing you can put on a slope. It prevents water from penetrating the soil, creating a slip-and-slide effect between the fabric and the mulch. The mulch will wash off, and the soil underneath will suffocate. Jute is biodegradable and allows the soil to breathe. For more on proper base preparation, read about why skipping the base layer causes failures.

2. How far apart should I space the Juniper?

For 'Blue Rug' Juniper on a steep slope where erosion is a concern, spacing is key. I recommend planting them 3 to 4 feet apart on center. They will grow together in about two seasons. If you need faster coverage, go tighter (2 feet), but be prepared to prune later. Check the USDA Plant Hardiness Map to confirm your zone's specific growth expectations.

3. What if the slope is too steep to walk on?

If the slope is dangerous to walk on, you are dealing with a structural engineering issue, not just a gardening one. However, for planting access, you can cut small 'benches' or steps into the clay as you go, but you must reinforce them. If the slope is truly severe, you might need terracing. See this guide on Retaining Walls on Steep Slopes to understand your limits.
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