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Drowning in Concrete: How to Give a Brick Box Serious Street Appeal

Before: A plain brick house dominated by a large concrete driveway and flat lawn. After: A lush front yard with deep curved garden beds and a flowering tree.

The Dilemma

A homeowner recently asked:

My house feels flat and uninviting, dominated by a massive concrete driveway and plain brick walls. Can I muster some street appeal without tearing everything down?

The GardenOwl Diagnosis

You have a solid house. The brick is in good shape, the roof is intact, and the driveway—while massive—is functional. But visually, you are struggling with The Concrete Monolith; the concrete is screaming while the house is whispering.

The Scenario

You have a solid house. The brick is in good shape, the roof is intact, and the driveway—while massive—is functional. But visually? The concrete is screaming while the house is whispering.

This is a classic "Brick Box" dilemma. When you look at this photo, your eye shoots straight down that concrete runway to the garage or gets lost in the flat expanse of turf. The entryway, which should be the star of the show, is currently a dark shadow on the left. The result is a property that feels utilitarian rather than welcoming.

The Trap: The "Foundation Necklace"

Look at your current garden beds. They are skinny strips, maybe two feet wide, pushed right up against the brick. This is the most common mistake I see in suburban landscaping.

When you plant a single row of small shrubs right against the wall (what I call the "soldiers in a row" look), you aren't hiding the foundation; you're highlighting it. It creates a visual underline that makes the house look stiff and the yard look smaller. You can't create depth with a two-foot strip of dirt.

The Solution: Deepen, Layer, and Curve

We don't need a jackhammer to fix this. We just need to change the geometry of the living elements.

1. The 8-Foot Rule

First, grab a shovel and widen those beds. I want you to pull that bed edge out at least six to eight feet from the house.

Why so deep? Because we need layering.

  • Back Layer: Plant taller evergreens or native shrubs against the brick to soften the masonry.
  • Front Layer: This is where you put your lower-growing perennials, ornamental grasses, or flowering groundcovers.

By creating these layers, you physically push the "view" forward, making the house feel settled in the landscape rather than just floating on a concrete slab. If you're dealing with heat reflection from that driveway, check out our guide on turning hot rock yards into welcoming entries for plant ideas that can handle the radiant heat.

2. The Vertical Breaker

Right now, everything is horizontal: the roof, the lawn, the driveway. You need a vertical disruptor.

Plant a small ornamental tree—like a Redbud, Dogwood, or Crape Myrtle—about 10 to 15 feet out from that right corner window. Do not plant it two feet from the house! Put it out in the lawn. This does three things:

  1. It breaks up the boring roofline.
  2. It casts shadows on the flat lawn, creating texture.
  3. It gives the eye a place to rest before it hits the neighbor's fence.

Consult the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to ensure you pick a tree that fits your specific climate zone.

3. The "Visual Runway"

That dark entryway on the left is a black hole. Shadow hides detail. To fix this, we use contrast. Plant bright, light-colored foliage—like variegated hostas (if shady) or lime-green ornamental grasses—leading up to the door. These act as runway lights, subconsciously telling visitors, "This is where you go."

4. Kill the Straight Lines

Your lawn is currently a rectangle. Rectangles are boring. Cut a sweeping curve into the turf that connects the driveway side to the right fence line.

Not only does a curve look organic and high-end, but it’s also easier to mow. You can glide the mower around a curve; you have to stop and turn for a 90-degree corner. If you're worried about maintaining the edge, read about why simple edging beats complex fixes to keep grass out of your new beds.

Visualizing the Result

It is hard to imagine how much space an 8-foot bed actually takes up until you spray paint the line on the grass. Most homeowners panic and think it's "too big" until the plants go in.

This is where GardenDream acts as your safety net. Before you start digging up sod, you can upload a photo of your house and test different bed depths and tree placements. It helps you spot constraints—like where the shade falls or how the curve interacts with the driveway—before you break a sweat.

If you want to spot hidden opportunities in your own yard, upload a photo to get an instant diagnosis and visualize the transformation using our Exterior Design App.

FAQs

1. How do I remove the grass to widen the beds?

For large areas, rent a sod cutter. For smaller curves, use a flat spade to cut the edge and a mattock to pull up the turf. Don't just till the grass in; it will grow back through your mulch.

2. Can I use gravel instead of mulch in the beds?

I don't recommend it here. You already have a massive concrete driveway. Adding more rock (gravel) will increase the heat load on your plants and make the house look even starker. Organic mulch (wood chips) softens the look and improves the soil.

3. What if I have utility lines in the front yard?

Always call 811 (or your local utility locator) before digging deeper than a few inches. This is non-negotiable, especially when planting trees.
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