New Pavers Look Sloppy? Why You Aren't Being Nitpicky (And How to Fix It)

The Scenario
A homeowner recently asked:
"Pavers install- am i being too nitpicky?"
The GardenOwl Diagnosis
The Assessment
You just spent a small fortune on a new paver patio or walkway. You walk outside to inspect the work, and your gut sinks. The gaps between the bricks look empty. Some bricks stick up higher than others. And along the edge, there is a smear of concrete that looks like a mistake, severely impacting your initial vision for high curb appeal. You live in a rainy climate (like Tampa), which often leads to The Interlocking Friction Failure when contractors use standard silica sand, and you are wondering: "Am I being a nightmare client, or is this actually bad work?"
The Trap: "It Will Settle"
Contractors love to tell homeowners that imperfections will "settle" or that the sand will "wash in." Don't fall for it. You aren't paying for a project that looks good in six months; you are paying for a finished product now.
The trap here is accepting the "construction site" look as the final product. If you see gaps now, you will see weeds next week. If you see uneven bricks now, you will trip over them tonight. And that silica sand? In a heavy rain region, that is going to end up on your lawn, not in your joints.
The Solution: The Punch List
Since they are coming back tomorrow, here is exactly what you need to look for and what to demand. Do not write the final check until these three things are addressed.
1. The Sand Issue (Silica vs. Polymeric)
Using standard silica sand in a place like Tampa is a ticking time bomb unless they seal it immediately. The first afternoon thunderstorm will wash that loose sand right out of the joints. Once the sand is gone, the pavers lose their "interlock" (the friction that holds them together), and they will start to shift and wobble.
The Fix: If they aren't sealing the pavers, insist on Polymeric Sand. This sand has a binding agent that hardens when watered, turning the joints into a firm, grout-like material. It locks the pavers in place and, crucially, stops ants from mining the sand out and weeds from rooting in.
2. The "Toe Stubber" Test (Lippage)
Visually, the floor might look okay, but your feet will find the mistakes. In the trade, we call the vertical difference between two adjacent pavers "lippage."
The Fix: Grab a broomstick or a long 4-foot level. Drag it across the surface of the pavers. Listen for the click-click-click. If the tool catches hard on an edge, that is a trip hazard. The industry standard tolerance (per the Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute) is usually a maximum of 1/8 inch (3mm). If it's higher than that, they need to lift that brick, adjust the bedding sand, and tamp it back down. Do not let them just whack it with a mallet; that won't fix the underlying bed.
3. The Ugly Concrete Edge (Haunching)
Look at the right side of the photo. That grey smear of concrete holding the pavers in place is called "haunching." It is structurally necessary, but it is ugly, and yours is sloppy and high. If you try to grow grass right up to that edge, the soil will be too shallow over the concrete. The grass will bake, die, and leave you with a permanent brown stripe.
The Fix: You have two options here.
- Hard Fix: Make the contractor chip away the excess height so it sits below the soil line (risky, as they might crack the retention).
- Landscape Fix: Accept that grass won't grow there. Instead, install a "maintenance strip." Dig a trench about 6 inches wide along the pavers, covering that concrete haunching. Fill it with decorative River Rock or a tough, spreading groundcover like Liriope or Mondo Grass. This hides the concrete and keeps your mower blade away from the bricks.
Visualizing the Result
That edge is the trickiest part. If you just throw dirt on it, it will wash away. You need to decide if you want a rock border or a plant border before you do any digging.
This is where a little planning saves your back. You can take a photo of that messy edge and run it through GardenDream. Try overlaying a river rock border versus a row of Liriope to see which one hides the concrete best without looking cluttered. It is a great way to blueprint the fix before you buy materials.
If you want to test this on your own yard, upload a photo to our Exterior Design App and see what this design would look like in your space.
FAQs
1. Can I add polymeric sand on top of the old silica sand?
2. How long does polymeric sand last?
3. Why are my pavers turning white?
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