Slippery Outdoor Tiles? Don't Paint Them—Here’s the Safe Fix

The Scenario

Looking at your photo, I know exactly what that feels like underfoot. This is a textbook example of The Low-COF Glaze Syndrome, featuring glazed ceramic tiles likely installed in the late 70s or 80s when builders often didn't distinguish between indoor and outdoor finishes. These slippery steps pose a serious risk—effectively turning your entrance into a wet windshield or an ice rink—and greatly detract from your home's curb appeal.

We have old outdoor tiled steps that turn into an ice rink every time it rains. We plan to replace them in a year or two, but we need a cheap, temporary way to add grip right now.

The GardenOwl Diagnosis

The Assessment: The 1980s "Death Trap"

Looking at your photo, I know exactly what that feels like underfoot. That is a glazed ceramic tile, likely installed in the late 70s or 80s. Back then, builders often didn't distinguish between "indoor" and "outdoor" tile finishes. These slippery steps pose a serious risk and greatly detract from your home's curb appeal, making this one of the common [exterior design mistakes].

The problem is the glaze. It’s essentially a layer of glass fired onto the clay. When dry, it's fine. When wet, the Coefficient of Friction (COF) drops to near zero. You aren't walking on stone; you are walking on a wet windshield. Since you are planning a full demo in a year or two, we need a solution that stops you from breaking a hip today, without draining the budget for the renovation tomorrow.

The Trap: Why "Anti-Slip Paint" Fails

Your instinct might be to go to the hardware store and buy a can of clear coat with sand mixed in, or an epoxy paint.

Do not do this.

Here is why: Glazed tile is non-porous. It creates a sealed surface that paint cannot bite into. If you paint over these tiles, moisture from the ground will wick up through the grout lines, get trapped under your new paint, and pop it off in sheets. Within three months, you will have slippery tiles and peeling, flaky plastic mess. It looks terrible and offers zero safety.

The Solution: Mechanical Grip or Chemical Etching

Since this is temporary, we care about safety first, aesthetics second. You have two viable paths.

Option 1: The "Ugly but Foolproof" Fix (Grip Tape)

This is my recommended fix for a short-term safety hazard. Go buy rolls of heavy-duty anti-slip abrasive tape. This is the stuff they put on skateboard decks and industrial loading docks.

1. Clean the Tile: Scrub the tiles aggressively to remove grime and moss. If you have algae buildup, you need to kill it first. (See my guide on cleaning slippery pavers for the right chemical approach).
2. Dry Completely: The tile must be bone dry.
3. Apply to the Nosing: You don't need to cover the whole step. Apply a single strip about 1 inch back from the front edge (the nosing) of each step. This is where your foot pushes off and where slips happen.

It won't win a beauty contest, but it will mechanically bite into your shoe sole through rain, mud, and snow.

Option 2: The "Invisible" Fix (Chemical Etching)

If you can't stand the look of black tape, look for a product like Stone Grip.

This isn't a coating; it’s an acid-based treatment. You mop it on, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, and rinse it off. It chemically dissolves microscopic bits of silica in the glaze, creating thousands of tiny pits. You can't see them with the naked eye, but when the tile gets wet, those pits create suction against your shoe.

Note: Test this on a small corner first. On some high-gloss vintage tiles, it can dull the shine slightly.

The Future Fix: Picking the Right Material

When you finally rip this out, do not let your contractor talk you into standard stamped concrete or smooth pavers. You need a material with a thermal, flamed, or cleft finish.

• Thermal Bluestone: It has a gritty, sandpaper-like texture that is naturally non-slip.
• Brushed Concrete: If you pour concrete, ensure they broom-finish it for texture.

Also, be careful about how you install the new steps. A common shortcut is to just brick over the old mess, but that creates dangerous height differences. Read why bricking over broken stairs is a code violation before you sign a contract.

Visualizing the Result

You have a classic red/orange brick house. The current yellow tiles are clashing with it—making the whole entrance look muddy. A dark slate or a cool grey bluestone would cool down that orange brick and make the entrance look intentional.

Don't guess at the color. Hardscape is expensive to change once it's set. You can use GardenDream to upload that photo of your steps and digitally swap the yellow tile for slate, bluestone, or concrete to see exactly what matches your brick.

If you want to test this on your own yard, upload a photo to our Exterior Design App and see what this design would look like in your space.