What is the best wire mesh for a catio?

Avoid chicken wire; it is too flimsy and predators can tear it. Use 1-inch galvanized hardware cloth (welded wire). It is rigid, rust-resistant, and strong enough to keep cats in and raccoons out. For a more aesthetic look, you can buy black vinyl-coated mesh, which tends to disappear from view better than shiny metal. This is similar to the logic we use when advising against loose materials that degrade quickly .

Can I use lattice instead of wire?

I generally advise against standard timber lattice for catios. It blocks your view, reduces airflow, and many cats can actually chew through thin lattice wood. Furthermore, standard lattice creates a 'ladder' that makes it very easy for cats to climb up and potentially get stuck near the ceiling. As discussed in our article about balcony privacy screens , wire systems are stronger, cleaner, and last much longer.

How do I secure the bottom of the catio to prevent digging?

If your deck is elevated like the one in the photo, you just need to ensure your frame sits flush against the deck floorboards. However, if you are building a run on the ground (grass), you must bury the wire. Dig a trench about 6 inches deep around the perimeter and bury the bottom edge of your hardware cloth. This prevents predators from digging under the wall. For more on handling ground-level barriers, check out our guide on installing fences and grading .

Turn Your Unused Deck Into a Luxury Catio: The "Frame-First" Method

Before: A rotting, unused deck with overgrown weeds. After: A sleek, enclosed catio with climbing shelves and secure mesh panels.

The Dilemma

A homeowner recently asked:

My parents haven't used their deck in 20 years, and I want to convert it into a secure run for four cats. I need a solution that isn't chewable netting, but I've never built anything like this before.

The GardenOwl Diagnosis

The Scenario

Your parents have a deck that has been collecting dust (and apparently weeds) for 20 years. It’s a classic case of "out of sight, out of mind." You have four cats that need fresh air, and you have a sturdy existing structure—that pergola roof and those black posts are actually a goldmine. The bones are there. The problem is that right now, it looks less like a potential outdoor oasis and more like a storage unit for a pizza oven. Dealing with common exterior design mistakes like this neglected area will certainly improve the home's curb appeal.

The Trap: The "Chicken Wire Special"

Here is where most DIYers ruin a project like this. They buy a roll of cheap chicken wire or flimsy netting and a staple gun. They stand on a ladder, trying to stretch the wire across the posts while stapling it directly to the wood.

Do not do this.

Why? First, it’s impossible to get the tension right, so the wire ends up looking like a wrinkled bedsheet. Second, you leave thousands of sharp wire edges exposed where the cats can slice their paws (or you can slice your hands). Third, when—not if—that wire gets damaged or rusts, ripping out 500 staples to replace it is a nightmare. You want a structure that adds value to the house, not something that looks like a temporary coop.

The Solution: The Modular Panel System

We are going to borrow a technique from high-end carpentry. Think of this like building giant window screens. You don't staple a window screen directly to your house siding; it sits in a frame. We are going to build Modular Tension Frames.

Step 1: Measure the Bays

Instead of looking at the whole deck, look at the "bays"—the open spaces between your existing black support posts. Let's say one gap is 6 feet wide by 8 feet high. That is your target.

Step 2: Build the Frame on the Ground

Buy pressure-treated 2x2 lumber (or cedar if you’re feeling fancy). Cut them to build a rectangle that is roughly 1/2 inch smaller than your opening. Lay this wooden rectangle flat on your driveway or garage floor. This is where the magic happens: gravity is now your friend, not your enemy.

Step 3: Apply the Mesh

Forget netting. You want 19-gauge galvanized hardware cloth (welded wire mesh) with 1-inch or 2-inch squares. It’s rigid, chew-proof, and looks architectural. Roll it over your wooden frame on the ground. Staple it down tight. Because the frame is flat, you can pull the mesh taut easily.

Pro Tip: Once stapled, screw a thin strip of wood (a "batten") over the staples. This hides the sharp edges of the wire completely. Now you have a clean, safe, professional-looking panel.

Step 4: The Install

Lift your new panel, slide it between the existing deck posts, and screw it into place. If you made the frame slightly smaller than the opening, you can use shims to get it perfectly level.

Why This Changes Everything

By building panels, you turn a frustrating two-person ladder job into an easy solo project on the ground. Plus, this structure allows you to integrate verticality. Cats don't just want floor space; they want height. You can bolt shelves or runs directly to your new 2x2 frames before you even install them.

Imagine sitting out there with a coffee while the cats chase bugs on their own "skywalk," completely safe from cars or coyotes. It stops being a wasted deck and becomes a 'Cat Solarium.'

Visualizing the Result

Before you go buy lumber, you need to check for "gotchas." Are those existing posts actually plumb (straight)? Is the floor level? Use GardenDream to scan the space. It acts as a diagnostic tool, helping you visualize where your panels will fit and if you have enough clearance for the door. It’s the best way to audit the space and see the transformation before you spend a dime.

If you want to spot hidden opportunities in your own yard, upload a photo to our Exterior Design App to get an instant diagnosis and visualize the transformation.