5 min read
HardscapingPaver MaintenancePolymeric SandPatio EdgingDiy Repair

Missing Sand at Your Paver Edges? Why Your Contractor Is Wrong and How to Fix It

Before and After: Missing Sand at Your Paver Edges? Why Your Contractor Is Wrong and How to Fix It

The Scenario

A homeowner recently asked:

My landscaper finished our patio, but every edge paver has an inch of sand missing. He says it's 'normal' because of spillage, but I'm worried about long-term damage.

The GardenOwl Diagnosis

The Assessment

You just spent thousands on a new paver patio. The surface looks level, the color is great, but then you look at the perimeter. Between every single edge paver, the joint is empty, creating a dark, one-inch gap where the sand should be. This is a textbook manifestation of The Interlocking Friction Failure. Addressing small issues like this early is key to protecting your installation; if left unfixed, these gaps significantly damage your curb appeal and compromise the structural 'lateral lock' that keeps your pavers from shifting over time.

When you asked the contractor, he gave you the classic shrug: "That's normal. Sand spills out of the edge when we sweep it, so we can't fill it to the top. Don't worry, there is concrete underneath."

The Trap

Your contractor is technically right about one thing: gravity exists. If they didn't backfill the earth against the pavers before sanding, the sand would spill out. But calling it "normal" is a lazy excuse for skipping the final detail work.

Here is why you cannot leave those gaps open:

  1. Water Infiltration: Even with a concrete bond beam (the concrete wedge holding the pavers in place underground), water sitting in those open joints will eventually freeze and thaw. This pops pavers loose over time.
  2. Insect Condos: That empty gap is a five-star hotel for ants and wasps.
  3. Structural Lock: Polymeric sand isn't just grout; it acts as a friction lock. Without it, the edge pavers are only held by the concrete below, losing the lateral strength they get from being keyed into their neighbors.

If you leave it, that edge will look ragged in six months. If you fix it now, it lasts for years.

The Solution (Deep Dive)

Since you have the bag of polymeric sand, you can fix the joint yourself in about 20 minutes. But while you are down there, you need to solve a bigger problem visible in your photo: the grass touching the stone.

Part 1: Filling the Gaps Correctly

Most homeowners mess this up by rushing. Polymeric sand contains polymers (glues) that activate with water. If you activate them too early, you ruin the patio.

  1. Bone Dry is Mandatory: Do not start this if there is morning dew or if rain is coming. The paver surface must be 100% dry. If it's damp, the sand will stick to the face of the stone and create a permanent white haze.
  2. Sweep and Vibrate: Pour the sand over the gaps and sweep it in. Crucial Step: Take a rubber mallet and tap the edge pavers firmly. You will see the sand level drop as it settles. Add more sand. If you don't vibrate it, the sand bridges the gap and collapses after the first rain.
  3. The Blower Technique: Before you add water, use a leaf blower on the lowest idle setting (or your lungs) to blow every speck of dust off the surface of the pavers. Any dust left behind becomes permanent sandpaper once wet.
  4. The Mist (Don't Flood): Use a garden hose nozzle on the "Mist" setting. You want to shower the joints, not power wash them. If you flood it, you wash the polymers right out onto the lawn, leaving you with loose sand that never hardens.

Part 2: The "Mower Strip" Safety Net

Looking at your photo, your grass is growing directly against the pavers. This is a maintenance nightmare. Every time you mow, you have to use a string trimmer against that edge. The trimmer line will whip the sand out of the joints you just fixed, and eventually, it will chip the corners of your expensive pavers.

The Fix: Cut the sod back.

  1. Slice the sod 6 to 8 inches away from the paver edge.
  2. Dig out that strip of grass.
  3. Lay down a piece of landscape fabric (optional for such a small strip, but helpful).
  4. Fill the trench with 1-inch River Rock or a decorative gravel.

This creates a buffer. Your mower wheel rides on the pavers, the blade cuts the grass, and you never have to take a string trimmer to your patio edge again. It also stops the grass roots from creeping into your sand joints.

Visualizing the Result

It is hard to visualize whether you want black mulch, river rock, or crushed granite as your border. You don't want to shovel a ton of rock only to realize it clashes with the paver color.

Before you start digging up sod, upload a photo of your patio edge to our Exterior Design App. You can digitally test different border materials—see how a white stone contrasts with the dark pavers versus a subtle dark mulch. It’s the best blueprint to ensure you like the look before you do the labor.

FAQs

1. Can I just use regular play sand to fill the gaps?

No. Regular sand has no binding agent. Rain will wash it out immediately, and ants will tunnel through it in days. You must use Polymeric Sand (often called "paver sand") which hardens like mortar but remains slightly flexible.

2. My contractor said the concrete edging is enough. Is he lying?

The concrete edging (bond beam) keeps the pavers from sliding horizontally into the yard. It does not seal the joint from water or pests. You need both: the concrete for structure and the sand for the seal. For more on spotting shoddy work, read about why new pavers look sloppy.

3. How do I stop weeds from growing in the new sand?

Polymeric sand is weed-deterrent, not weed-proof. Weeds usually grow from seeds landing on top of the sand, not from beneath. Keeping the joint full (flush with the chamfer of the paver) prevents dirt from accumulating, which gives weed seeds nowhere to root. If weeds are already an issue nearby, check out how to deal with weeds in gravel walks.
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